Salkantay Trail

74KM in 5 days from the snow, to jungle to the High Andes

Shortage of breath, multiple mental breakdowns and a complete life crisis, but man, it is one of (if not) THE most beautiful life-experiences ever!

This Blog is one that tells the story of 3 individuals that took a chance to do the Salkantay Trek together, without a tour guide. Shivam a friend of Joe (@Joeknowstravel) from the States and Vera, I, who met Joe traveling in Peru maybe a month and a half prior to this endeavor. Therefore sharing this journey, route and all the tips & tricks from our own experience. If you wish to take another route or visit other areas, feel free to do the research, otherwise I truly hope that you enjoy the different segments highlighting what this beautiful journey is all about. Also, there is a list included on “What to Bring” on your trip, as we (me and Joseph) overdid it for sure in that department bringing 13kg and 30kg in our backpacks respectively, Oopsie! This trek is GREAT for BEGINNERS, so you do not need to pack your tent, camping gear, loads of food or liquids. There will be many villages along the way that offers places to sleep, meals and also drinks. DO BRING CASH!!! 

Day 1: IN FOR A RIDE: Cusco – Soraypampa – Humantay Lake (3200m/1380ft!)

***QUICK BREAKDOWN (IF YOU DO NOT WANT TO READ EVERYTHING)**

• Collectivo from Cusco to Soraypampa 3:30am 80/sol
• Pay 20/sol to enter at Mollepata
• Find a place here to stay at. There are many places along the way. We stayed right at the entrance for 50/sol night. If you walk towards Humantay Lake there are more places there, which will make your trek the next day shorter.
• 1:30hr to Humantay 400m gain (go before 2pm). This is a fairly tough hike up but it is so beautiful. When you get there, don’t just stop at the lake the entire time. Continue on the trail to the left of the water that leads to a valley. You will be able to see both the valley and the lake from here. 
• Trek back to your hostel to sleep

TIP

Buy a tour to the Humantay Lake at Plaza de Armas in Cusco (around 80 Soles per person – You can direct message Harry https://www.instagram.com/destiny.travelagency/), which will pick you up from your hostel in Cusco, includes breakfast and takes you to Soraypampa; the little settlement in front of Humantay Lake where you will begin your trek and where you will also spend your first night after visiting this amazing lake. (Simply mention to the tour company that you will not be going back with them because you are trekking to Machu Picchu).

The other option is to arrange a private van which will cost around 350 Soles for a 3 hour ride. Depending on the amount of people you’re with (if more than 4) it might be cheeper to get one. 

Keep in mind that when you choose to go by tour, the van picks everyone up in the morning: usually between 4 – 5AM at the hostel. It is recommended to go as early as possible though, as this will give you more time to enjoy good weather and acclimate to the altitude at the lake. In general it is advised to acclimate to the altitude (drinking lots of coca-leaf tea) in Cusco for a few days prior to beginning your trek.

Day 1 will consist of you traveling to Soraypampa, checking into your accommodation and trekking up to Lake Humantay and back to your accommodation to rest and prepare for Day 2. It took us about 1.5h to get up to the lake after checking in. Keep that and the amount of time you might spend up there in mind (at least 1-2 hours), as you do not want to be up the mountain when it gets dark and cold (depending on the time of year you go).

When driving up to the Humantay Lake take your altitude pills if you have not acclimated as of yet! I (Joseph) usually take them an hour prior to the change in altitude. You can buy them anywhere at the pharmacy in Cusco and ask for instructions. They did help myself and Vera but please make sure to consult your own doctor for advice as sometimes they can give you an allergic reaction and more headaches instead of relief.

Sleeping in Soraypampa:

In choosing a place to sleep in Soraypampa, I suggest finding a place as close as possible to the FOOT of the Humantay Lake, as this will save you a long hike in the morning on Day 1 & 2. Day 2 is going to be your toughest day of the entire trek. YOU GOT THIS! Depending on your budget, you can choose depending where you want to spend your night (ranges from 10$ up to 55$ US Dollars), remember to bargain and also to include breakfast as the price is not fixed. You DO NOT need to book anything in advance for this trip. This allows flexibility on where you want to stay and also allows you to negotiate a fair price.

How to Book Accommodation?

Walk up to any hut, hostel, or cabin that you see and ask for a room. There are various options to choose from and they do not fill up (if you do decide to bring camping gear, just ask for a camping spot and someone from the village will direct you).

Must Try: 

After having the first small mental breakdown on your way up to the Humantay Lake (thinking of how you will survive the second day when you’re already dying after the first 500m and you’re not even carrying your trekking pack), remember these words: DON’T STOP, YOU ARE DOING GREAT! After getting to the lake and resting a bit, I highly recommended finding the courage and energy to continue along the trail on the left side from the lake (4328m / 14200ft). After seeing the lake you might be thinking “that at this point it is not possible”I am done hiking”, trust me, if you follow the trail on the left up the hill, you will get to see even more stunning views of the lake and the valley beside it.

After this first mind blowing achievement it might already be dark so make sure you have a small headlight for your own comfort. Before bed, we enjoyed a good meal at our homestay; soup and a main course, a “menu” (in Peru this means a pre- and a main course and sometimes even desert). The “menu” was not included but not expensive (around 15 Soles). Do not forget how cold it is up here. I (Joseph) recommend a warm hoodie, beanie and thick socks prepared. I also recommend bringing light shoes or sandals so your feet can rest from your hiking boots.

Day 2 – STEP BY STEP:  Soraypampa – Chaullay (reach Salkantay peak 4629m/15187ft)

***QUICK BREAKDOWN (IF YOU DO NOT WANT TO READ EVERYTHING)**

• Wake up 4-5am. Eat breakfast, pack your bags and begin your trek.
• Make sure you have water, warm clothes and solid hiking shoes/boots on.
• Walk towards trek peak 4600m towards Chaullay 2800m
• Find a Hostel at Chaullay. This day is LONG!!!! 6-10hours. Be prepared. Start early. 4-5am. This will be the most challenging part of your trek. 

The next morning we planned on leaving around 5AM, but probably left around 6AM; make sure to discuss this with the host as they are preparing breakfast for you. We packed some sandwiches for lunch that we prepared at breakfast. Note; there is enough food along the trek so you do not have to pack your bag full with tin cans, snacks etc. Water on the other hand is important: have at least 2.5L per person. There is water sold along the trail (8 Soles per small bottle).

A 99% chance of you having a second mental breakdown, this time it might feel like a midlife crisis, wondering what the heck you are doing to yourself, hiking up a mountain in the middle of nowhere, with shortness of breath, lightheaded, feeling hot and cold at the same time, and in the midst of crying every step you take which makes you want to give up. Hang in there, you got this!

Tip to stay motivated:

Try to imagine how good it will feel reaching the top and going down the mountain afterwards, or create small goals, such as: you deserve a 5 second break after each 10 steps (Thank you Joe for this one!). If you do not want to listen to your own pep-talk-of-a-lifetime, try to put on some music that helps you to push through or download other motivational podcasts.

Talking from experience, I (Vera) have been there, with a backpack filled with 13KG (of course I packed too much stuff, especially food thinking we would end up in the middle of nowhere), having a mental breakdown, thinking what did I get myself into and yet, untrained, made it all the way to Machu Picchu by foot.

TIP: WATER – WATER – WATER

I can not emphasize enough on how valuable water is in these circumstances. The only way to help your body operate in low oxygen conditions is to consistently drink water. Try to bring a small bottle too (not plastic) and keep it on the side of your bag where it is easily accessible.

Having all of the emotional pep talks out of the way, after having a good breakfast & getting your stamp in your passport at the little store (more like an open counter in front of the Humantay Lake), your day 2 of the trekking begins. 

The hike will look as following:

You will begin by trekking up to Salkantay Mountain (steep incline most of the way), then after reaching the Salkantay Mountain you can relax a bit and start descending more or less all the way to your next settlement: Salkantay Hostel ……  (this is where we stayed and bargained for 65 Soles each, including breakfast for a 3 person room).

In the beginning of the valley as you are hiking, there are two paths; the one on your left is a bit higher than the one in front of you, but they lead to the same place. After your first ascent, you will encounter a picturesque view of a little cabin up the hill surrounded by mountains. Once at the cabin you will choose from 3 paths.

MUST TRY: 

We (Vera and I) took the path on the left for a higher more challenging route with better views, while Shivam took the one in the middle which was still a pain in the buttocks. Really tough! Each step you take feels like you haven’t covered any ground (TIP: give yourself a pep-talk, or listen to your favorite music and try to take sips of water), so remember to enjoy your surroundings, breath in the fresh air and focus on the positive. Little steps ahead.

YOU MADE IT to the top of the Salkantay Mountain (4629m/15187ft)!

After having your tears shed, photos taken and a huge sense of relief for reaching the top: you will feel #invincible! Nothing on your way ahead can take that away (this is not completely true, but keep this feeling of invincibility alive each time you start thinking “I can’t walk anymore”). The fact that from now on it will be mostly all a decent, feels sooooo goooooood! At least I (Joe) thought it would. (Unfortunately I injured my knee from the constant impact while going down the mountain, so this made the remaining days UNBEARABLE).

Although the second day will be your toughest one, you will experience all different sceneries on this day making it so much more impressive; from mountains in the snow, to fields of rocky formations, having to take off more and more layers of clothing until you reach the jungle. This is all in ONE DAY! Take a good imprint of all these precious moments as much as possible they will stay with you forever! Once you reach the jungle, Machu Picchu practically yours!

Accommodation: SALKANTAY HOSTEL

Once making it to this hostel we were extremely beat. Vera and I (Joe) were quite aways ahead of our friend Shivam, who had no idea which Hostel we choose once arriving (again, there are multiple accommodations to choose from along the way) so I had the brilliant idea of flying my drone in order to find and direct him to our location. It took some time but eventually Shivam understood I was directing him. Haha, you had to see the video!!

Adjusting

That night at the hostel we met a great group of Israeli travelers that we passed on the trail earlier that day. While having dinner and playing cards, they informed us that the original trekking path for DAY 3 had collapsed so you had to walk along the dirt road that the cars had to drive on. Therefore they were eager, just as I (Vera), to take a bus to Santa Teresa to enjoy the hot springs and continue their trekking from there on. I (Joe) was not so enthusiastic about this idea because I felt as though we couldn’t say we “Finished the Salkantay Trek” if we didn’t hike the entire way. After some convincing from everyone, predominately Vera, I realized that it was in my best interest to take the van to the next location. My knee was so swollen from that day that I could barely walk 10 feet. I was in AGONIZING pain.

Day 3 – REST DAY: Chaullay – Santa Teresa (visit Hot Springs: Aguas Termales Cocalmayo de Santa Teresa or a Coffee Plantation)

***QUICK BREAKDOWN (IF YOU DO NOT WANT TO READ EVERYTHING)**

• Walk Chaullay to Lucmabamba (taking road Not the old route) . You will be walking along the actual dirt road where cars drive because the original trekking path was destroyed. 5:30hours
• can stay at Sahuayaco or  Lucmabamba (Viamonte ecolodge)
• Or 
• Walk to Santa Teresa (follow driving road)
• Or you can sleep at Santa Teresa: Adds 2 hours to Day 4
• Thermal baths in Santa Teresa must sleep here to enjoy thermal baths 

The hike to Santa Teresa (if the actual trail is still closed) will be a flat and long walk along a dirt road. It should only take a few hours and there is not much elevation change for this walk.

Once we arrived at Santa Teresa (basically one main street) we found a hotel named “Yacumama Hotel”, that was pretty cheap and around the corner of the main street; which does not even have a name on Google maps. 

Upon arrival we all three decided to visit the hot springs of Santa Teresa, called: Aguas Termales Cocalmayo de Santa Teresa instead of the coffee plantation nearby. To get to the hot springs you can easily bargain with a Tuk-tuk for a two-way ride. Simply decide on a time and your driver will be waiting for you at the entrance for your way back to Santa Teresa.

MUST TRY, Entrance and TIPS to Aguas Termales Cocalmayo de Santa Teresa:

The entrance ticket to the hot springs has to be purchased in the city centre. Simply mention to your Tuk-tuk driver that you need to buy your ticket to “Aguas Termales” and they will take you there. The type of  ticket you purchase depends of the number of hot springs you want to get into.There are 3 or 4 in total (supposedly: the smaller the hot spring, the hotter they are). However, we bought one for the largest pool (which was pleasantly warm and clean) and stayed there for about 2.5 hours until our hands and feet looked like prunes (if I remember correctly, they change people according to a time slot, after an hour and a half the bell goes off, but we just tried to blend in a bit with the others to hide from the guard).   

At night we explored this little village where we had some food, played Jenga and had a few beers at a restaurant, took over the music and became DJ for the night, then rapped and danced like it was the end of the world. Complete #FREEDOM in a ghost town called Santa Teresa. All jokes aside, this day was much needed, as on day 4 we were in for a BIG surprise…

Day 4 – BACK ON TRACK: Lucmabamba – Hydroelectrica – Aguas Calientes (400m/1312ft below Machu Picchu)

***QUICK BREAKDOWN (IF YOU DO NOT WANT TO READ EVERYTHING)**

• Start at Lucmabamba to Hidroelectrica (if you slept at Lucmabamba or Sahuayaco)
• Lucmabamba to Hidroelectrica is around 6-8 hours
• Santa Teresa to Hidro is around 3-5 hours
• Follow the train from Hidro Eléctrica to Aguas Calientes 10km 3hr
• Stay at Aguas Calientes: It’s a cool town with hot springs (go here and have som drinks), really great restaurants and a lot of places for souvenirs. If you want to add a day to rest this is a good place to do it before trekking to Machu Picchu. This is the town at the base of Machu Picchu

Today will be another long day but thankfully you already have conquered the most difficult day of the trek. You are out of the high Andes so need for a big jacket anymore. You have made it to the JUNGLE!

After our chill day and night out (maybe not too smart because we drank WAY too much and didn’t sleep much; but so much fun & needed) at Santa Teresa we took a mini van for a total of 90 Soles that took us to Lucmabamba. We decided to take a van and back track a bit because we thought the trail would be a bit shorter from Lucmabamba. It was a total disappointment because what we initially thought would be a 6h hike to Hydroelectrica (the town where most people get a train from to get to Aguas Calientes Machu Picchu)., ended up being a 9h trek, PLUS the 10.4KM from Hydroelectrica to Aguas Calientes…..but let’s not think that far ahead.

As you start your long trek for the day, you can stop at the trail entrance at Lucmabamba like we did to load up on snacks and water. Remember cash is NECESSARY along this entire trek. Within your first 1-2 hours of hiking, you will bump into a “Starbucks” (was the highlight of our day because the coffee here gave us the energy we so desperately needed).

At this point, this trek is very straight forward. You will be hiking through the beautiful jungle in the Andes toward Machu Picchu. Though it is long, the hike itself is very easy, except if you are injured like I (Joe) was. (I was in the most pain I’ve ever been in. I refused to talk to anyone for hours after our next stop because it was irritable and had to talk to myself the entire way to motivate myself to continue pushing past.)

TIP: Make sure you stop at the swing along the trail. YOU CAN’T MISS IT! The sweetest family live below it and they offer food and drinks for sale. (I recommend buying something from them and their beautiful little daughters).

TIP: Stop at the ruins at the top of the mountain (there will be signs) for lunch. You can view Machu Picchu from this point. It was a very surreal experience for us. Though we had many hours ahead of us, it was the first time we realized we were REALLY finishing this trek to Machu Picchu.

At this point, you are almost there. You will continue on the trail until you reach Hidroelectrica, a town where most people go so they can hop on a train to Aguas Calientes (the town below Machu Picchu). At this point, the trail will be gone and you will have to walk about 3 hours 10km/6.21 miles to Aguas Calientes along the train tracks. Unfortunately, I (Joe) thought this was the worst part of the trail because the path consisted of large rocks/stones and train tracks. This made walking with quite literally one leg terribly painful.

As you walk closer and closer to the town Aguas Calientes, an overwhelming sense of accomplishment fills your body. Then you read the words on the sign “Aguas Calientes” and your body just drops. Over the last 4 days you have felt every emotion imaginable, and you realize it was all worth it. (You haven’t even made it to Machu Picchu yet but you know, YOU MADE IT!) Even as I write this blog, I can remember perfectly the feeling I had. Proud. Knowing that through every bit of pain we endured, we continued on. We were there to cheer each other on, but although we were together it was “You vs You”. Those long hours, countless miles, blood, sweat and tears (no exaggeration), were accomplished by you and you alone. You did it!

Day 5 – MACHU PICCHU

***QUICK BREAKDOWN (IF YOU DO NOT WANT TO READ EVERYTHING)**

• Aguas Caliente To Machu Picchu (you can pay for a roundtrip bus ticket for $24 USD or you can hike EARLY in the morning. It is a 2:00 hour hike and you will start your hike depending on what time you booked your Machu Picchu Tour). Best times to book is at 6am so you get there before everyone else and can see the sunrise. 
• We ended staying a few days afterwards in Aguas Caliente to relax.
• Spend about 3-4 hours exploring the wonders of Machu Picchu
• When finished, head from Aguas Caliente to Hidroelectrica. About 2-3 hours. (same route)
• Last bus at Hidroelectrica departs at 2:30pm and it’s a 6hr bus back to Cusco. Cost 50 Soles. Contact +51 926 577 640 on WhatsApp to schedule a bus pick up! 

The morning started out in Chaos, sore body, contemplating life, raining, figuring out how to get the bus ticket up to MP and where to stand in line.

After waking up at a Bed & Breakfast called “Rupa Rupa High Jungle Eco B&B” (private room for 2 people around $50 USD/night or 3 bed family room for $60 USD/night via booking.com) we had to start our journey to Machu Picchu. Though we were completely exhausted, having a nice bed, hot shower and beautiful terrace overlooking the mountains gave us the energy needed for our last and final day. (I highly reccomend splurging on a nice hotel in Aguas Calientes. YOU DESERVE IT!) If you have booked your Machu Picchu entrance early in the morning, you must start your journey a few hours before. BOOK HERE!!

As the view is pretty enjoyable from this hotel it also might be an idea to stay here after you have returned from your day at MP and relax from your 5 day and +/- 74KM hike. Another option is to stay on the other side of the river (but everything is walking distance at Aguas Calientes) at “Hostel Machu Picchu Land B&B” or the “Machupicchu Packer”.

Aguas Calientes & MUST TRY: 

Aguas Calientes is definitely a very touristic little town at first sight, but once you notice it has two parts: the square and the other side of it with nice little bars and places to eat up the street, you start to appreciate the ambiance that it has to offer. Especially when you have tried the cocktails at the hot springs “Hot Springs Pools and Bar” (open till 8PM). ( Only allowed to get in for 2 hour duration so make sure to enter just before 4PM or 6PM to enjoy your time slot to its fullest).

Entry Ticket Machu Picchu: 

Make sure to bring your ORIGINAL PASSPORT and ADMISSION TICKET to the entrance of Machu Picchu. Don’t forget to put your water in your bag when entering Machu Picchu. Bring a rain poncho & sunscreen just in case. Also, reserve your admission ticket online a good time prior to your trip (Official Website Here). The Payment (around 160 Soles) can be completed at the main square, next to the church (right hand when facing the church) where you will find a cultural centre office. This if you come across upon difficulties completing your payment online like we did. 

Assuming you are hiking up to Machu Picchu instead of taking the bus, once you have reached the Entrance of MP you can hire a tour guide BUT it is not required. I (Joe) personally left our tour to wander about solo which I prefer to do most times. If you do decide to get a tour guide, it is better to bargain at Aguas Calientes a day before, as they can also help check whether you have everything ready for Machu Picchu and you will be able to bargain more (keep more or less 80 soles a person in mind). 

BUS RIDE OR A 2h WALK UP:

When you want to enjoy a few hours at Machu Picchu itself, my advice is to take the 24dollar (round trip) ticket up to the top and spare your energy wandering around once there. Especially if you decide you want to climb one of the two extra peaks once at the ruins (Huayana Picchu and Macchu Picchu Moutnain). However, if you wish to do the hike up towards Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes, keep in mind it is a steep mountain, where you hike along stone steps (9KM long and 400m high from Aguas Calientes), whereas the bus drives you up the mountain in about 20 minutes. 

If you are in shape, it will take you about 1.5h otherwise 2-2.5 hours to get to the ENTRANCE of Machu Picchu.

WHER TO BUY BUS TICKET: 

For your bus ticket there is a small store where they sell them in Aguas Calientes. It is along the road near the river where a viaduct is crosses, however the best advise would be to ask someone for the bus ticket office. There will be someone to direct you easily. Once you have your physical admission ticket, make sure your name is on it correctly as they might print out a previous one and you do not want to be stuck at the entrance. Once you have your bus ticket you can stand in line underneath the viaduct to await boarding. 

TIP: STAMP PASSPORT OF MP: ask a few tour guides on the street where the person is with a big stamp to stamp your passport as a souvenir. You can also get one in a store, but as I recall the person at the entrance of Machu Picchu did not ask for cash in return.  

HOW TO RETURN: Machu Picchu – Cusco

You have two options when going back to Cusco.  

1. Take one of the two train companies (Inca – or Perurail) from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo (around $70 USD, 2h long) and from there you can hire a minivan (literary a whole street of drivers awaiting tourists, so just bargain for one – around 50 Soles) back to the city. You can buy the tickets to the train online (PeruRail Here or IncaRail Here) or at the train station that is in town across the river from the main square. The handy part is that everything is walking distance in Aguas Calientes.  

2. Option 2. You can walk back the 10.4km to Hidroelectrica (Santa Maria), or take the day train ($35 USD) from Aguas Calientes to Hidroelectrica from where you proceed by a minivan to Cusco (around 5.5h). Make sure, if walking back to Hidroelectrica, to be on time for the minivan. You can text them in advance. We used a number that our hostel gave us, which is: (WhatsApp: +51 926 577 640) and costs 50 soles.

3. There is actually a 3rd option (which Vera and I (Joe) opted in for) and that is to stay in Aguas Calientes a night or more longer to enjoy the charm of this little town; try good food, play Jenga and visit the hot springs instead of heading back to Cusco on the same day.

WHY SALKANTAY TREK (as opposed to the Inca trail)?

No limit control on the amount of people allowed to hike daily (which is: 500 people including guides for the Inca Trail); you do not need a guide (saves you $500+ USD); enjoy at your own pace & use your money elsewhere (trying out food, souvenirs, etc), more chances to see animals next to the most impressive changes in scenery.

You can still get a tour guide for the Salkantay Trek, if you want to meet fellow travelers in an organized group and if you want to ask an experience guide questions regarding the area while trekking. BUT, if you are up for the adventure, definitely do this trek solo or with a couple friends! You won’t regret it.

BEST TIME TO VISIT:

All year long, yet, to avoid rain, preferably May – October

TRICKS & TIPS:

Take small steps & drink regularly sips of water due to altitude

WHAT TO BRING/PACK: 

• Original Passport (entry Machu Picchu & stamps)
• Trekking poles (life savers)
• Sunblock for the face
• Mosquito repellent
• Altitude pills (if not allergic)
• Gloves 
• Basic under clothing (legging and long sleeve shirt)
• Trekking pants
• Fleece sweater 
• Hoody (if not too heavy)
• Warm jacket for runners/warm puffy jacket
• Rain poncho
• Really good hikingboots (preferably waterproof)
• Another light pair of sneakers or sandals for the hostels
• Water 1.5L + small bottle on the side: preferably not plastic!
• Snacks, such as: cereal bars and nuts (you can make sandwiches with the bread during breakfast for your trek)